Kingston Ontario is a small picturesque city at the eastern end of Lake Ontario. Here the lake narrows down into the mighty St. Lawrence River with its famous Thousand Islands — summer home to the rich and famous for most of the last century. The islands are also where the salad dressing got its name.
The islands are also where people crossed the river in days gone by and that made them a point that had to be guarded when the colonists to the south broke away. The British government and military put a lot of money and effort into defending this strategic point, as the French had done before them.
Kingston Ontario became a World Heritage site in 2007, mainly because the Rideau Canal and accompanying fortifications are an almost intact example of 19th Century military building. The complex of Fort Henry and the surrounding network of Martello Towers form an integrated defensive system protecting the shipyards, harbour, city, and southern entrance to the Rideau Canal — itself a defensive water route carrying waterborne trade and supplies away from the St. Lawrence River with its threatening southern shore.
Today, the fort and towers are open to visitors, the Rideau Canal is available for pleasure boaters, and the Thousand Islands are a boat tour from the harbours of Kingston and Gananoque, a small town a few kilometres further east along the river. The shipyards and naval base they serviced are gone, as has most of the industry that supported them, which may be sad in some ways but has the benefit of leaving us a cleaner, more attractive city to live in or visit.
Another boat that leaves regularly from Kingston dock is the Wolfe Island ferry. The ferry is free and leaves hourly (roughly) all year round, though the schedule is different in winter and summer as you’d expect. Wolfe Island, named after General Wolfe not the animal, is a small rural community with antique shops and restaurants for vacationers to enjoy.
Some of the other fine old buildings include St. George’s Cathedral, Queen’s University (Canada’s oldest degree-granting institution), City Hall at Confederation basin near the harbour, and Sir John A. MacDonald’s house. Sir John was the architect of, and first Prime Minister of, the united Canada and Kingston’s most famous resident. Speaking of politics, Kingston was even Canada’s capital briefly, in 1841.
It may seem unlikely but today the military fortifications seem bright reminders of the past, possibly because they were never used, but there is a darker side to Kingston — the Penitentiary, which sits on the waterfront at the western edge of the city. There’s even a Penitentiary Museum for vacationers who like to peek into the bleaker side of human life.
A happier Kingston attraction is the Kingston Farmer’s open air market, which takes place on weekends throughout the warmer months. This mix of country crafts, baked goods (my favorite), and antiques is a wonderful way to while away the hours. It’s even history because it’s Canada’s oldest farmer’s market having been going since 1801.
Kingston was the site of the sailing events in the 1976 summer Olympics (that’s almost an historical event itself now) and the port still provides excellent opportunities for sailors. Sailboats can be rented or charters arranged at the harbor.
Kingston’s old stone buildings can look a little grey some winter days but the city is anything but dull. With excellent pubs, restaurants and a vibrant entertainment scene, it should be on everyone’s list of Ontario places to visit.